Saturday, July 17, 2010

Kind of Like the 2nd Avenue Stop in NYC!


Except with all of that art. Anyway...

So I've been in Berlin for how long now and haven't yet explored Tacheles? For shame!

Okay, for my non-Berliner friends, I should probably first explain what this graffiti laden, dilapidated, six floor monstrosity is all about. A quick history...

Built in the early 1900s, this structure was first used as a shopping center. Then creepily enough, from the mid 30s until the end of the war, it was used by the SS and other Nazi related organizations. Beat to hell (as was a whole lot of Berlin) during the Allied air raids, it remained a mess for the next several decades as the East Berlin government didn't have the money to properly restore it. However, soon after the wall came down, it became a refuge for squatting artists. Today, it still looks like a pit but attracts artists, art lovers, and curious folks like me from around the world. At any given time, about 30 artists from approximately 20 different nationalities are exhibiting.

Considering I have rushed past Tacheles maybe 50 times while on my way to this or that, I decided the other day that my limited time in Berlin meant no more rushing by. Unfortunately though, I made this decision on one of those 90 degree days. Although a respected artistic institution, Tacheles very much still has a punk rock (read: dirty) vibe to it.

So when I wandered into the entrance on that hot, muggy afternoon, I am sorry to report that a stench of urine about knocked me over. I was quite shocked actually, considering all the talk about Tacheles cleaning itself up and no longer being true to its anarchistic, squatting roots. But I continued on. I walked up a flight of stairs only to find all of the studios on that floor closed. I then walked up another flight, hotter and although not quite as stinky, still stomach churning. It sort of took me back to my social working days, heading up some suffocating stairwell afraid of what I would find at the top.

By the third flight, I was beginning to seriously feel queasy. The over stimulation of the screaming posters and graffit on every inch of wall space did not help. I quickly told myself, "Not worth it today" and hightailed it out of there.

I think I am officially old and irreparably uncool.

I'm on month seven now of my time in Berlin and have passed Tacheles approximately 51 times and now feel like I need to apologize to somebody about this. So...I'm sorry. I know a lot of people are probably judging me as a wimpy American who couldn't make it past a bit of stinkiness to get to the really cool stuff. And it's absolutely true. I will make it in there sometime, I promise. Just not in the smoldering heat.

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